I don’t think I’ll be walking anywhere anytime soon. I got the joke. One foot in front of the other. Marching songs from obscure Japanese superhero shows that you base your whole life on humming in the back of the head.
That’s because I just walked all the way from Akihabara to Shinjuku. And here I am at the Southern Century Tower having a margarita and the EL Torito “Macho Combo” with you good people.
It takes about 2 ? hours by foot (10 min by train) and is exhausting, especially if you don’t have any money so you can rest in a caf? or buy something to drink. But more about that later.
I’m getting the “die” vibe from a table of very strange Americans over to my left. I don’t think they like my Unibomber T-shirt, the tap-tap-tap of the keyboard, or the Rotten Cotton bumper sticker on my laptop (Man shooting himself in the head: “The #1 Underground T-shirt syndicate on the fucking planet!”)
Meanwhile, they are a haggard middle age white woman who looks like Peter, Paul, *and* Mary all trying to inhabit the same body at the same time, a young Mulatto girl, and what’s maybe her mom, who says “Onegaishimasu” to get the staff’s attention instead of ‘Sumimasen,’ who then go about ignoring her.
This place is some sort of way station for hen na gaijin and rich women sitting by themselves, picking at chips and salsa, faces buried in paperback books. Sit and eat. Sounds like a good plan. Tokyo is either me, alone like this, or trapped in a room with a bunch of nutjobs for 12 hours straight with nothing but beer to drink.
I went to Akihabara for a photo shoot with the Tokyo Shimbun. They snapped me inside of Tora no Ana ogling Moe-kei figures, walking past Ali-Baba on Chuo-dori, and doing a Busby Berkeley-style dance number backed up by animatronic maids on the escalators of the Seikai no Radio Kaikan trying to be as quotable as possible the whole time (memo to Alt-Japan: we tried to snap a bit inside the Gashapon Kaikan, but the media blackout continues).
Good-bye to the staff then. See you in the funny papers next week. Time to go back to Shinjuku, find a caf?, and finish that article on Ninja High School for Figure Oh before Tomo comes back to Japan just to stomp a mud hole in my ass.
But I don’t have any cash. And I left my ATM card back at Draft One. In other words: Hen na gaijin wa totemo fucked desu. The only card I have that will get me those cool millions only works at Citibank. So no problem. Find a branch, like the ones in Shinjuku and indeed Kichijoji, buy a bottle of pop, and take the A-train.
I can now personally attest that there are NO Citibanks in Akihabara. Places that sell human-sized pillows with female game characters on them, yes. Stun guns disguised as cell phones. Check. Blank Beta tapes for fuck’s sake. Double check. But no ATMs that will “do the gaijin.”
But no big deal. There’s bound to be a City Stank on Yasukuni-dori. After all, it’s one of the main boulevards that runs through the thrilling city (tm) of Tokyo.
I can now personally attest to the fact that there are no Shitty Banks on Yasukuni dori, at least, not until Shinjuku.
The pressure of a pressing deadline, and total lack of physical comforts, it’s still a pretty epic and stunning walk. I thought about going to the Hi-Ho offices when I passed through Jimbocho, where I could beg Ginty for train fare, but figured I might as well put on a diaper, fall in the street and scream “I want my ba-ba!” And besides, What Would Nagai Kafu Do? Definitely take the stroll from the Shitamachi to the Yamanote, lamenting the loss of Edo all the while, taking note of the fact that the route follows that of the daily voyage the city’s sewage used to make during them days (yes, Shinjuku really *is* Tokyo’s toilet).
Before leaving Akihabara, there was half a temptation to trade in the new iPod Nano for train money and some used Curricular Machine DVD. But I’m glad I didn’t because I got a chance to test walk my new “Bari! Bari!” playlist, a collection of Cools, Rats & Star, Yokohama Ginbae, The Mack Show, and The Colts that would probably sound better on a motorcycle, but only hoofing it was an option.
With the imperial palace erupting out of my left side, the colossal tori arch of Yasukuni Temple popped into view. I figured the offering box there must be full of 100 yen coins, but international relations are shit enough without some guy who looks like a Turkish woman starting problems.
Observation: for every neat-o cool place in Tokyo, there are approximately 300 boring coffee shops and soba-yas. And that’s mainly all you get to eyeball from Ichigaya on. By this point, I gave up on even looking for a Pussy Stank and resigned myself to the Frankenstein shuffle, however long it was going to take. The only respite from increasing tedium was the sex offender hum emanating from the Unibomber shirt whenever I walked by a post office. I finally had to smother his mouth with my Porter designer handbag when I came to a crossing and had to ask a cop which way the fork in the road led to Shinjuku.
“You me, by walking,” he said with a strange grin, like he knew I was in for something rough. A half hour more of Tully’s Coffee, Origin Bento, and Mizuho banks (Nagai would have capped himself by now) and suddenly I was looking at a Denny’s. Not just any Denny’s, but the one billed by Yoshiki as the “the most fucked-up Denny’s in the world.” Every day around 5 am, a rouge’s gallery of gangsters, trannies, hookers, and pimps spill out of Ni-chome and Kabuki-cho and wind up there for cocoa and honey butter toast.
Yokohama Ginbae officially welcomes me back to Shinjuku. The sun is going down, but I still get to stand in the shadow of the site of the former Japan Self Defense HQ, where Yukio Mishima played hardball for the last time. Then there’s the building where the idol jumped off, the papers running pix of her brains all over the pavement the next day.
A line of bikers zips by at the Chuo-dori crossing. B-boys sniff out some baggy threads near 0101 Men’s. The hos begin price wars with a twist of their hips and a turn of their blessed boot heels. And young couples overlook the galaxy rail lines near South Exit, put their cell phones down for a bit and finally touch tongues. Ee, ne?
For me, a long limp home around 6:30 am, and legs like someone who’s been hit by a bus is all I can hope for tomorrow. But I guess it still beats writing about Ninja High School.
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Japanese Street Fashion Corner:
Gustav Horn, I know you are always the first to try and out yourself as an otaku, but until you get some real shitty black New Balance shoes and wear them non-stop for a year straight, then you are walking on thin ice that used to be black rain. Glasses help, of course, but it’s really the sneakers that make the otaku.
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